Articles
Kayak car-topping systems
- Category: Kayak fishing accessories
- Published on Monday, 24 October 2011 18:36
- Written by Josh
Transporting a kayak from ones garage to the water is perhaps the most challenging task facing most kayakers, especially kayak fishermen who typically opt for beamier, heavier and or more complex styles of yaks. Fortunately there are numerous products, means and methods of going about car-topping a kayak and many of them are perfectly simple enough for just one person to perform. Before going on to describe some of the various options available and what considerations apply to each of them, we should first offer a few comments on what may be the simplest option of all, which is to use a trailer. If you do own a heavy kayak and you really want to simplify the whole transporting thing, if you can get away with it, go for a trailer. It's a whole lot easier to load a big kayak on to a trailer than it is to lift it on to a roof. Some people just use basic box trailers for the purpose, others modify boat trailers, but there are also kayak-specific models available from companies such as Hobie and Real Ezy Trailers, and all are superior than car-topping, especially for heavier yaks.
Not everyone can afford a trailer, however, and others have no ability to tow one, either because their vehicle isn't compatible, or there is a caravan or camper-trailer there instead. The good news is that there's more than one way to skin a cat and even more ways to load a kayak. Obviously, having a second person on hand to help simply lift it straight up and onto the racks is generally going to be easiest but thats not always an option either. So lets explore some alternatives...
If you plan on loading your kayak upside down and especially if you're loading your kayak onto a sedan (which limits your options), one of the better solutions is to use a roof-rack extension bar of some kind, such as the popular Rack & Roll system. This simple device (designed in Australia) basically comprises of two bars that connect to each other, one with a small 90 degree elbow at the end and the other with a couple of fixed brackets, as well as a smaller (and less important) pivoting bracket. These brackets attach to the front roof rack bar that effectively creates a support bar extension at the side of the vehicle. The user picks up one end of the kayak and rests it on the extended bar and uses that as a support while then picking up the other end of the kayak and positioning it over the opposite bar. At this point the user just pushes the hull into place, straps it down and then drives away. It's easier said than done, though it's really not terribly difficult to do.
This system doesn't usually work very well with cradles, however, as the cradles take up nessecary space on the bars which make it difficult to position the other end of the kayak, and sometimes impossible to fit the Rack & Roll itself. As such, the Rack and Roll product works best for kayaks that are being loaded upside down on to the gunwales and as such, do not need cradle supports. Most sit-on top kayaks will allow for this, though some popular models, such as the Hobie Pro Angler and Adventure Island yaks, will need reasonably high foot packs for their racks to ensure clearance for PA grab rails and AI crossbars. The same is usually true for any hull with RAM mounts and other apendages protruding upwards from the gunwale. Kayaks like these are often better transported by being secured into cradles.
There are several ways you can go about establishing an extension bar for car-topping, the Rack & Roll (which is compatible with many popular rack bar types) being just one of them. Roof rack manufacturor Thule have their own system which can be fitted into their aero bars, which they call the Outrigger. The extension slides in and out of the rack bar itself, which is a nice neat way to do it, though these may struggle under the weight of heavier fishing kayaks. Another way to achieve a secure extension bar is to use galvanized tent poles - one extendable ridge pole connected to rack bar with steel hose clamps, plus an extendable pole with end cap on one end and spike at the other, to use as a load bearing support for the end. This is by far the least expensive way to do it, but also certainly the ugliest.
Update: Thule have now introduced the Sliding bar, which is heavier duty than the Outrigger. The video below demonstrates how it works
Since we've raised the brand name Thule, right now is a fitting time to introduce their other kayak loading systems. The Thule Hullavator is another popular product that would be even more popular if it wasn't the most expensive option going. The Hullavator is a hydrolic lift and storage assist system that solves 2 problems in one. Not only does it simplify the loading part somewhat, it also incorporates cradles with which to secure the kayak. The cradles swing down to the side of the vehicle that allows the user to place the kayak into them at waist height, which is probably the trickiest part of the whole process, as it does mean lifting the entire kayak off the ground. Once positioned in the cradles it's all smooth sailing from there, as the hydrolic arms flex their muscle and take all of the work out of it from there. The bad news about the Hullavator (apart from the skyward price) is the fact that they are limited in what sort of sizes the cradles will comfortably carry. They will not accomodate a Hobie Outfitter terribly well (in case you were wondering) and are less likely to work with something like a Pro Angler.
Another interesting product that Thule make is what they call a Goalpost, which would work well as a rear loading bar, useful for loading into cradles, as well as upside down. The great thing about the Goalpost is not only could it be used as a load assist, it could also be used as a surrogate support bar for transport as well. The Goalpost would be a good solution for heavier hulls, and would probably work pretty well with most canoes as well as kayaks.
Similar to Thule's Goalpost, but perhaps even more useful for some, is the Aussie designed and made (featured on the New Inventors Program no less) Strongarm kayak loader. This device attaches to a towball and much like the Goalpost, has variable height adjustment. Where it's different is that it pivots at the base, and this can make a huge difference in loading the kayak. Essentially, it takes most of the weight of the kayak and as you push forward it pivots forward and lifts the hull up onto your rack bars. These work particularly well with canoes, and would also be a pretty good solution for many larger kayaks.
Before going on to describe a couple of other rear-loading systems, it's worth mentioning at this point that if you are fortunate enough to have a vehicle with a rear rack bar that is positioned close to the rear of the vehicle roof, you may very well be able to make use of that rack bar as your primary support bar when loading. Unfortunately, most vehicles rear rack bar are positioned too far forward, which is where the following methods and devices come in.
Highly worthy of mention here is the Rhino suction-cup load bar that was conjured from the mind of Melbourne based Hobie kayak dealer Scott Lovig. This system uses heavy duty suction cups built into a short Rhino sport bar with gliding cradle supports and it is a great way of loading a kayak onto racks and or into cradles from the rear of the vehicle. As demonstrated by Scott in this video, this system makes car-topping a Pro Angler a relatively painless experience, and given the weight of the yak, is pretty good testimony. This system would work well with just about any kayak and is a great solution for anyone who needs a real-load assist.
Inspired by the design of the Rhino suction-cup load bar is the Bullhorn suction cup load bar, which is really just an aluminium tube (sheathed in PVC) bent into the shape of a Bullhorn with 2 heavy-duty RAM-built suction-cup feet. It works in much the same way as the Rhino system, though with fixed width sides (not variable like the Rhino system). The Bullhorn bar works on almost all hull shapes and sizes, and is best used for kayaks that are being loaded onto their base and into cradles. As you can see from the video below, the Bullhorn is quite capable of loading something as large and as heavy as a Hobie Tandem Island hull, which is about as heavy and cumbersome as kayaks get.
There are also numerous custom made car-topping systems that are really very impressive as well and the more dedicated of users may do well to look into some of these. The example shown at the top of this article is rather similar to Thule's goalpost, and what was most impressive about this was watching how easy it made for the owner to load and unload by using it. When used in transport, the support bar (attached to a bullbar) as set at max height. But for unloading purposes, the height is lowered to the point where it becomes a waist-height proposition for the user, who gently guides it on or off the rack by way of the roller on the outside of the bar, which is engaged when the bar is lowered. Very clever and very simple, and the designer will probably regret not patenting it (if he hasn't already).
Also rather impressive was this fixed frame system that incorporates a roller at the back of the frame, which is used as a support and weight bearing guide to help slide the kayak into place. In the example shown in the photo the kayak slides onto lateral supports, though the system would work equally well into cradles.
While discussing custom kayak car-topping systems, we'll go out with a bang here by introducing one of the most elaborate, yet incredibly well engineered system that was custom built for the ever-popular Hobie Tandem Island trimaran yak. Rather than steal his thunder, however, we'll just offer this link to the post he made at the Hobie Community Forum, which explains the system in detail.
Update: Jay sends in a heads up about the Malone Seawing Kayak Carrier, which although untested by the author, looks to be another good cradle and rear load assist system that might work well for some. GlobalPaddler has the skinny on the Seawing. Descriptive images below:
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